BILL OF FARE

Area sushi favorite makes a welcome return

The Chef's Choice Sashimi Entree with fresh slices of red and white tuna, salmon, and thinly sliced stripped bass and octopus.

The Chef's Choice Sashimi Entree with fresh slices of red and white tuna, salmon, and thinly sliced stripped bass and octopus.

Baby octopus Chuka Idako on a bed of seaweed.

For the past couple of months, I've heard chatter about the return of Domo Sushi to the Toledo area restaurant scene.

Wondering if the rumors were true, I decided to check it out, and I'm happy to confirm the rumors: Domo is back.

Atmosphere and creativity combined, the elegant restaurant features sushi classics and takes the liberty to push some boundaries with its specialty rolls and dishes.

The purposely understated decor, with white chairs, hardwood floors, and a long, sleek sushi bar in the middle of the dining area, creates the feeling you are dining in the heart of a metropolitan city, instead of in a plaza in Sylvania Township.

MENU: Click here to see Domo's offerings.

The restaurant recently relocated to 6725 W. Central Ave. from Reynolds Road in Toledo. We visited on a weeknight and were happy to see the dining room filled with smiling patrons.

For starters we went with the Gyoza ($5.95), or steamed meat-filled dumplings. The dough was a little wet, but overall the sesame vinaigrette dipping sauce added layers of flavor. We were excited to try the Sashimi Carpaccio ($13.95), with razor-thin slices of tuna, salmon, and white fish; however, the manager told us the watercress that accompanied the dish was not up to their standards, so the dish would not be served. We appreciated the notice and adored his suggestion to try the Picante Tuna Ceviche ($14.95).

The dish is a twist on Mexican dipping salsa, served with nachos instead of rice. Layer upon layer the dish was a favorite. Served in a circular stack, pico de gallo was at the bottom, covered by the ceviche mixed with spices, then a thin layer of black caviar and wasabi tobiko. Served with a lime, the citrus brightened the dish and the spicy picante pleasantly lingered. The tender tuna mixed with the crunch of the tortilla was a welcomed combination that made the dish perfect to share with friends.

Silky baby octopus, also with a hint of hotness, Chuka Idako ($9.95) was the third appetizer. I'm not a fan of the octopus texture, but I managed two full bites and found it tender and not squishy. My companions agreed on my assesment; one being an octopus lover, she happily cleaned the plate.

When it came to the specialty rolls, flirtatious names made it just as interesting to choose a dish as to eat it.

Hot & Sexy ($13.50) featured tempura shrimp, with a layer of spicy crab meat and teriyaki sauce. It was the first item that caught my eye. But Hot Love ($13) won me over. A double dose of tuna and crab meat — one on the inside and one on the outside — was also topped with radish roots. The roll had a kick to it and overflowed with flavor. Our knowledgeable waitress said it is a customer favorite.

I enjoyed the rolls filled with fish and various accompaniments, but the Three Musketeers ($8.50), although simpler, was one of my favorites. Three gems of raw fish — tuna, salmon, and yellowtail — blended together for a delicate and sweet combination. Alongside them in the roll appeared scallions, smelt roe, cucumber, and of course spicy mayo.

We also had the Spider Roll ($8.50). It was good, but I've had more memorable soft shell crab at other sushi houses. The Superman ($12.95) was an unwelcome mouthful of fish. Shrimp and avocado are wrapped in a layer of rice, followed by another blanket of tuna or white tuna, the two switched on-and-off. My companions found it bland compared to the other specialty rolls.

The Sweet Crunch ($14.95) was true to its name. The roll paired tempura shrimp and cream cheese, crowned with eel and sweetened coconut flakes. The fish combo is hearty enough to hold its own with the sweet syrupy finish.

Dessert was a show-stopper. Although small, the imported (the waitress said the frozen treat was shipped with Japanese inscription on the packaging) Red Bean Mochi ($3.95) were like bite-size moons picked from the winter night. The gummy rice dough protects the cold ice cream inside. The chewy, creaminess of the dessert satisfied our carb craving. We also indulged in a Chocolate Toffee Mousse Cake ($6).

I returned to Domo for lunch and tried the Gyoza ($5.95) again, and my companion agreed about the wet dough. We split a Sashimi Entree ($24.95), which was the chef's choice. It is accompanied by a salad and miso soup.

Two slices of firm octopus graced the plate, alongside other sashimi regulars. Shiny strips of salmon, red tuna, and white tuna were arranged on the plate. The white tuna was quickly seared on each side, for an added smokey flavor. For the first time, I had raw striped bass. It was mild, while still on the meaty side.

The plate was a refreshing, light meal, that was good for two. It is suggested for two to three people, but with three pieces of fish each, there might be some fighting if you try to split it among your companions.

Along with a range of cocktails, wines, and craft beers from the United States and Japan, the menu also offers udon noodles, teriyaki entrees, and shrimp, chicken, and beef based dishes.

So you heard it again, Domo Sushi is back. And yes, you should try it.

Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com.