RESTAURANT REVIEW

Mancy’s hangs its hat on great steaks, service

5/8/2014
BILL OF FARE
  • Mancy-s-Delmonico-steak-with-mushrooms

    Mancy's Delmonico steak with mushrooms.

    THE BLADE
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  • Mancy's Delmonico steak with mushrooms.
    Mancy's Delmonico steak with mushrooms.

    There are not enough restaurants to enjoy a high quality meal with exceptional service, but Mancy's Steak House continues to set the standard.

    The regal atmosphere of dark wood and low lighting fills with the sound of real conversation and laughter, rather than loud TVs and a harried bustling wait staff. It's a restaurant you go to when you want to enjoy your company over a wonderful meal of some of the best steaks available with outstanding service to complete the experience — we were glad we decided to reserve a table, even on a Monday night.

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    MENU: Mancy's Steak House dinner menu

    Mancy’s Steak House
    ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

    Address: 953 Phillips Ave.
    Phone: 419-476-4154.
    Category: Business casual.
    Menu: American.
    Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.Monday through Friday; dinner, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday, and 4:30 to 10:30
    p.m. Saturday.
    Reservations are accepted.
    Wheelchair access: Yes.
    Average Price: $$$$
    Credit Cards: AE, Dis, MC, V.
    Web site: mancys.com.

    To illustrate the attention to detail, the recent soup of the day, a lobster bisque ($8.50), was a show stopper. A bowl of two full ounces of lobster meat is placed in front of you before the waitress covers it with the rich, velvety broth. The interesting presentation proves the amount of fresh seafood in the soup that is clearly there in every bite.

    But back to the main course as, the Phillips Avenue restaurant is known for its aged hand-cut steaks and it's a well-earned reputation. The 10-ounce filet mignon ($34.95) is tender and delicious, without an ounce of fat or gristle, seasoned nicely with a noticeable but not overbearing amount of salt. With your choice of varied side dishes, we opted for the roasted fingerling potatoes that were fluffy with the right amount of bite. 

    We also dined on the 14-ounce New York strip steak ($33.95), and 16-ounce Delmonico ribeye ($36.95) with sauteed mushrooms. Both were marbled cuts of meat and expertly cooked to a perfect medium. The New York strip is listed as the restaurant's "house steak," but an argument can be made for the Delmonico — they're both that good. 

    If you're in the mood for something other than steak, Mancy's has a nice selection chicken and lamb dishes, as well as seafood, such as the salmon over gnocci ($24.95). A generous portion of rich salmon is served over house-made potato gnocchi with sun dried tomatoes and spinach in a light and creamy veloute sauce. 

    It's the details at Mancys that standout, such as the presentation of the house salads served with every meal. They are not a throw-away option like at some restaurants, but fresh mixed greens topped with hearty garlic croutons and decorative carrot strings served on a chilled plate. The poppyseed dressing is a nice addition if you're looking for something sweet. 

    The appetizers are served in large portions and can be meals by themselves. The crab-stuffed mushrooms ($8.95) were a huge hit during our first visit. Meanwhile, if we did have one quibble, it was the side of broccoli ($5.50). While not sacrificing taste, the presentation of the two large heads didn't make it easy to eat. You will need the steak knife in order to cut through the thick vegetable. 

    Mancy's mushrooms.
    Mancy's mushrooms.

    A wide selection of coffee and after-dinner drinks continue the leisure nature of the meal with a number of delicious dessert options. The cheesecake ($6) is a well-prepared choice that is rich and creamy served with a tart berry sauce. The chocolate sac du bon bon ($10) is a large tower of dark chocolate filled with a light and fluffy chocolate mouse complimented with a raspberry sauce and Chantilly cream — it is very rich and very delicious. 

    The restaurant, which has an impressive offering of wines, also has commissioned its own craft beer and has other selections available as well. 

    There may be some newer upscale restaurant offerings — and dare we say with more ambiance? — in the area but when it comes to dependable, top-notch steaks and impeccable table service, Mancy's is still at the front of the line.

    Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com.

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