toledoblade.com --

Metropolitan Toledo isn't exactly a hotbed of continental cuisine, but it's still possible to find a handful of places within driving distance whose chefs possess the skill to create divine French sauces draped over classic French entrees - of the kind that, in Ernest Hemingway's words, made Paris such a moveable feast.

As a sterling example, drive a short way over the Ohio-Michigan line and you'll find the Frog Leg Inn, a restaurant whose ordinary name belies a French-accented menu that has enticed discriminating patrons for at least the last decade.

The restaurant, in Erie, Mich., owes its reputation to Chef Tad Cousino (a shirttail cousin to the Toledo restaurateur) and his French-born wife, Catherine. Their aim was to re-create the simple splendor of a French country inn with great food and a first-rate wine list. In so doing, they have made the little Michigan town a magnet for epicureans.

The kitchen bedazzles patrons with such dishes as steak covered in cream sauce laced with sour-mash bourbon; sauted chicken breast with bacon, wild mushrooms, white wine, brandy, and heavy cream; various renditions of Normandy pork, coq au vin, lamb, and duck, all with similarly piquant sauces - and of course, frog legs deep-fried in beer batter or sauted in garlic butter wine sauce.

Frog Leg Inn

• Address: 2103 Manhattan St., Erie, Mich.
• Phone: 734-848-8580.
• Category: Dress up (but dress down is acceptable).
• Menu: French.
• Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 4 to 8 p.m. Sunday. Reservations are accepted.
• Wheelchair access: Not in the restrooms.
• Smoking section: Tuesday-Thursday.
• Average price: $$$.
• Credit cards: AE, Dis, MC, V.

This is a restaurant - expensive at the high end, but with very good bargains as well - that bears repeated visits. I can't imagine how it escaped my notice all this time.

The modest wooden building on Erie's Manhattan Street dates back to 1853. In the ensuing years it has been a bawdy house, speakeasy, school, meat market, and pizza bar. Early in the last century, it became the Frog Leg Inn, and some 80 years later the Cousinos took it over and again transformed the place.

During the Cousinos' tenure, the pool table gave way to a dainty dcor of white-cloth-clad tables, framed Mardi Gras posters on the walls, and a cupboard filled with stuffed and ceramic frogs donated by various patrons. The only thing marring the cozy ambiance is an ostentatious, red wraparound laminate bar that clashes with the genteel character of the dining room.

The frog legs, succulent with or without breading, can be ordered as a dinner ($13.99) or as a six-leg appetizer sampler ($7.49). Other possible starters are Hawaiian coconut shrimp or stuffed mushrooms, both $6.99, and luscious, fresh-roasted garlic cloves laden with herbed cheese ($6.49). For the salad, the servers undoubtedly will recommend the house Dijon tarragon vinaigrette dressing; don't turn them down.

Though I was skeptical about the pineapple-flavored sauce cloaking an otherwise well-turned salmon entre ($16.99), I swooned over a roasted veal shank ($19.29) enveloped in a heavenly dark sauce and the tenderest meat, served with a side of juicy braised cabbage. Another entre that made us jubilant was roasted, chargrilled medallions of pork tenderloin ($17.99), marinated in mustard, cider vinegar, and honey and served in a silken French sauce.

In a special note, the proprietors take pains to explain that much of the beef on the menu is listed at market price, with a promise that the cost will be adjusted weekly as the price rises or falls. Last weekend, for example, the 12-ounce lamb chops were going for a fairly high $32.99, while an eight-ounce New York strip cost a modest $14.99.

As further evidence that the Cousinos have the customer in mind, a generous helping of farmer's chicken - sauted and seasoned chicken breast slices in a white wine cream sauce over black pepper fettuccine - went for just $9.99, salad and bread included. And on the way out, Julie, our sensationally competent server, reminded us that the restaurant also makes pizzas to go.

From Toledo, there are two recommended routes: north on M-25 (the old Dixie Highway) into Erie. At the second traffic light is Manhattan Street; turn left. Or, take I-75 north to Exit 2 (Erie-Temperance), which will take you to Manhattan Street.

Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com