Article published November 10, 2009
The life of a circus chef
When the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Over the Top Circus arrived in Toledo this week for performances at the Lucas County Arena, performers and crew traveled by train, and Chef Michael Vaughn's job is making sure everyone in the troupe eats well.
"It's a city without a zip code," he said in a phone interview.
With a staff of six, the head of the food and facility services has been with the circus for all but two years since 1993. He and his staff cook for a diverse population of circus performers and staff, serving more than 300 each day.
"We serve everything from cheeseburgers to filet mignon," said the New York City resident. The kitchen is sometimes open to guest cooks, performers who cook dishes from their native land.
There are actually two kitchens - one on the train with a dining car, plus a "fully equipped kitchen in a trailer to serve while at the venue," he said.
These units have toured throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico on a year-round schedule. The chef also coordinates food service for special corporate functions such as black-tie receptions, opening night galas, and holiday parties.He designs menus for a business that is constantly in motion.
"The most strategic part is getting orders in," said the chef. "We have a purchasing department in Florida. For every city they help us with where we can get food. We use companies like Sysco, US Foods, and local companies." Delivery can be tricky, with vendors trying to locate a train to make the delivery. Sometimes Mr. Vaughn picks up the supplies.
Another challenge is cooking for people with different ethnic backgrounds and nutritional needs. The ethnic make-up includes Moroccan, Brazilian, Mexican, Cuban, Columbian, Chinese, Hungarian, Bulgarian, Russian, and others. Some performers don't eat pork. There are a few vegetarians and others who like lighter fare with no red meat.
The workmen want meat-and-potatoes, while performers often want salads and healthy foods without too many sauces and gravies. "It's all about keeping everybody happy," he said. "On a two-show day, the menu includes fare like beef, fish, two soups, and two different desserts."
The staff works different schedules. Forty people can be in the dining car at a time. "Some grab a plate and go back to their room [on the train]," he said. "Some rooms have cooking facilities so they may not come to the dining car that day."
On a typical day, the dining car opens for breakfast at 6 a.m. By mid-morning, they are rolling into lunch and preparing meals to go to the portable kitchen, which operates for the show schedule. The chef's day ends about 10 p.m.
Mr. Vaughn met his wife on the show. "She was a vocalist," he said. "Now she is a homemaker." The couple have a 3-year-old daughter.
Although he was born in California, he grew up in Louisiana, which has inspired his cooking. He loves the Creole or Cajun style. "I really like Creole crawfish etouffe and gumbo," he said. "My favorite for the show is barbecue. We do it all: ribs, chicken, steaks, burgers."
A typical day's menu might be fettuccine Alfredo topped with boneless chicken strips, pesto chicken, or pasta primavera, seared salmon fillets or yellow fin tuna kebobs on a rosemary skewers with pomegranate vinaigrette over Caesar salads. Desserts can include pineapple upside-down cake, lemon pound cake, or cheesecake. "They love cheesecakes," he said.
Show times for the circus are 7 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 11 a.m. and 3 and 7 p.m. Saturday, and 1 and 5 p.m. Sunday. Call 800-745-3000 for tickets.
Kathie Smith is The Blade's food editor.
Contact her at: food@theblade.com or 419-724-6155.
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