RESTAURANT REVIEW

Holland grille has huge sports bar vibe

6/19/2014
BILL OF FARE
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    Chicken Gyro with hand cut fresh chips.

    The Blade
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  • Chicken Gyro with hand cut fresh chips.
    Chicken Gyro with hand cut fresh chips.

    Half rack of Pit Boss Ribs.
    Half rack of Pit Boss Ribs.

    Firepit Grille's patio, both the expansive covered area and the open-air portion (a raised, curvilinear gas fire pit is surrounded by rocking chairs), is terrific. It opened in November in what had been Chowders ‘N Moor.

    But what most impressed me is the quantity of large-screen TVs, which, compounded by concrete floors and high ceilings, lends a certain retail vibe. ("Rustic industrial" is how Firepit's website describes the decor; does that sound a tad oxymoronic?).

    In two dining areas there are more than 25 screens tuned to every sport invented since the ancient Mayans played ball at Chichen Itza. The sound is off but that void is filled by recorded and sometimes live music. This is a place to have a good time with friends.

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    Firepit Grille
    ★ ★

    Address:
    7723 Airport Hwy., Holland.
    Phone:
    419-724-4441.
    Category:
    Casual.
    Menu:
    American grill (VIEW) 
    Hours:
    11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
    Wheelchair access:
    Yes.
    Average Price:
    $$
    Credit Cards:
    AE, Dis, MC, V.
    Web site:
    firepitgrille.com and Facebook.

    In addition to sports they serve food, not food I'd recommend traveling far for, but if you're in the vicinity and hungry, it'll do. It is a grill and almost everything the kitchen sends out has a sheen of oil.

    Grilled shrimp with rice ($16.99) was two skewers, each with five shrimp. They were fine for a medium appetite. The side of asparagus was more of a garnish.

    The marinade for the chicken gyro ($8.99) didn't add noticeable flavor, and veggies were skimpy in the pita wrap.

    Both of the following meals were brought to the table lukewarm.

    We've come to expect rib meat that falls off the bone. My serving (half-rack, $16.99; full, $23.99) did not; though substantial, they weren't tender. They topped a pile of fries. Coleslaw had good color but was bland.

    Salmon ($16.99) was tasty but broccoli was undercooked.

    The cactus chili soup ($2.99) with beans, ground beef, and a couple of veggies, was passable. Cactus sounds exotic but, on the tongue, usually is a pale imitation of a green pepper.

    Salmon fillet.
    Salmon fillet.

    The menu lists eight sandwiches, all in the $9 range, burgers, chicken bites, a couple of steaks, salads, and four seafood items. Eight appetizers, typical save for house-made hummus, are $4.99 to $9.49.

    Grilled shrimp.
    Grilled shrimp.

    Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., is usually accompanied by live jazz, and the a la carte prices are reasonable.

    Service: On one occasion it was hard to understand the server; on another, the server was more skilled.

    Notes: Because of the hard surfaces, the noise level is high even when there's a modest crowd. There's often entertainment. Happy Hour is 4 to 6 p.m. every day, with half-price appetizers and specials on drinks.

    Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com.

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