RESTAURANT REVIEW

Farm-to-table fare livens up Sylvania scene

Almond Crusted Chicken Wrap

THE BLADE
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Almond Crusted Chicken Wrap

Kale and Roasted Beet Salad.

At Fowl and Fodder a sandwich is not just a sandwich. Under the watchful eye of owner Scott Bowman — the creative mind on the cooking line — ingredients that fill its sandwiches, soups, and salads get an extra dose of tender loving care.

When folks walk into the casual eatery located at 7408 W. Central Ave. in Sylvania Township they are greeted by its staff, which includes Bowman, who can provide a step-by-step overview of pretty much each ingredients’ life, from the farm to table. Bowman is thoughtful in sourcing ingredients from area family farms that treat chickens, pigs, and cows (all grass fed) humanely.

MENU: Fowl and Fodder

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He told us the chickens were true free range, living life outside on a pasture picking on fresh greens. He purchases organic fruits and vegetables when possible, or selects harvests that are minimally treated with chemicals. The restaurant’s website lists its local vendors.

Bowman’s enthusiasm in food is reflected in the lively end results. Before we sat down for dinner on a Saturday night, we refreshed in the juice bar. No frozen ingredients here.

You can custom order your fresh juices, but we recommend choosing one of the combinations ($4 to $5) that have been tested and proved to tastefully marry greens and fruits together. The Carrot, Apple, Ginger had zing; Pear, Pineapple, Kale was sweet; and Tomato, Chili, Carrot, Orange delivered a Bloody-Maryesque buzz. I chose to spruce up a cool cucumber juice with celery by adding lemon and a touch of ginger. Now onto the good stuff. I started off with a cup of Roasted Tomato Soup ($3). Thick enough to eat with a fork, yet creamy. It had a welcomed touch of honey.

When I peeked into the restaurant’s open kitchen I saw Bowman open a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer while he was brewing another batch of the hearty Beer Cheese Soup ($5 a bowl). The cheesy soup’s secret ingredient is jalapenos, which are roasted and peeled; a little bit of the burnt skin is intentionally left on for a charred flavor. For the carnivorous customer, meat ingredients that serve as the basis for Duck Confit Tacos, ($11), Cuban Style Panini (with pork $10), Pork Confit Tacos ($10) and more, are cooked slowly in its own fat, à la confit, preserving the meat in its own succulent juices. Each receives a healthy dose of an in-house topping that complements the juicy meat.

My Cuban panini oozed with pork flavor from bacon, ham, and the slivers of pork confit snuggled on an airy loaf of bread. While I concentrated on deciphering all the flavors happily filling my mouth —salty pork, cheese, mustard, aioli — I could not help but eye my friends’ sandwiches and wraps with envy. They too were also trying to get a nibble of my sandwich. So like a modern square dance, we agreed to a quick switch of the sandwich.

The Almond Crusted Chicken Wrap ($10) smothered strips of crispy chicken with a creamy coleslaw dotted with bits of mango and a mayonnaise blended with ancho chiles. I relished in the Tempura Meatloaf ($11).

Duck Confit Tacos

Here the American comfort food is redesigned. Thick slabs of meatloaf are drenched in bread crumbs and then deep fried. They are placed on a crunchy bread baguette that has a layer of bacon tomato jam and fried onions.

Daily specials Duck Pastrami (left on a roll) and Roast Beef Sandwich with aus jus (right).

There is a vegetable wrap for vegans and gluten free bread. Seasonal and staple salads are also on the menu that combine fruits with fresh greens and cheese. The grilled peach salad ($4) mixed the stone fruit with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and red onions. A watermelon salad ($4) was summer in a dish, with crispy melon, heirloom tomatoes, and cucumbers blanketed in a house made balsamic vinaigrette.

Although the prices may be slightly more compared to other sandwich shops, the cost is justified as the restaurant makes most dishes from scratch.

Also, the restaurant features daily specials at discounted prices. When we returned for lunch the Roast Beef Sandwich, normally $11, was discounted at $8. The Duck Pastrami was featured for $10, when it is normally $12.50.

Bowman again was on hand mingling with customers. He said the roast beef was marinated in rosemary, thyme and other spices for more than a day. The beef was then cooked in its own juices, which served as the base for the side of au jus that comes with the sandwich. Fowl and Fodder also caters to the younger foodies.

Its Kids Menu features a grass-fed beef hot dog and grilled cheese sandwich. This restaurant has livened up Sylvania’s food scene, bringing the best of the area’s produce, meats, and artisan foods wrapped up in a specialty sandwich.

Note: Starting in October, Fowl and Fodder will add some light breakfast items to the menu so early risers can get freshly squeezed juice and breakfast at the restaurant.

Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com.

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