Squash: Autumn’s hardy fruit, best treated as a vegetable

10/4/2011

Ratatouille with zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, red pepper, and spices.

The Blade/Andy Morrison
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Squash isn’t bad, it’s just misunderstood. All it needs is a little PR.

The problem with squash is the name. “Squash” isn’t the most appetizing word in the lexicon. It makes you think of a vegetable that once was bigger, but was tragically crushed down to its present size.

Surely, it is no coincidence that the most popular squash in this country by far happens to have a cool name. Zucchini -- the word is so exotic, so enchantingly Italian. Like all squash it was first grown in the Americas, but the Italian word stuck and beat out the French term, courgette. Actually, courgette is still an accurate name for it, but try going to a grocery store and asking for one.

Winter squashes (such as butternut and acorn squashes) suffer from a particularly bad reputation, partly because their tough skins make them hard to cut. But the hard skins also contribute considerably to one of winter squashes’ best attributes: They have an especially long shelf life and can be stored for weeks.

Not bad for a fruit.

That’s right, squash’s dirty little secret is that it actually is a fruit. It has seeds -- which is what makes it a fruit -- and in fact is closely related to watermelons. But don’t go squeezing yourself a glass of butternut squash juice just yet. You’ll be happier if you treat it as a vegetable and, frankly, so will the squash.

Even people who don’t like squash sometimes like squash; they just don’t realize it. The most traditional dessert at Thanksgiving, of course, is pumpkin pie. Pumpkin is a squash.

So, let us begin our culinary exploration of all things squashy by delving into the secret appeal of pumpkin pie. The pumpkin is the most important flavor, but what really grabs your attention are the sugar, the dairy (condensed milk or whole cream), and the cinnamon. It should come as no surprise, then, that one of the most popular methods of cooking other types of squash is to bake them and top them or mix them with brown sugar, dairy (butter in this case) and cinnamon. This is a great way to introduce people to the glories of squash and to make them want to try cooking it in other ways too. It’s sort of a gateway recipe.

Another classic use of squash is the eternal French favorite ratatouille. Not just the name of a cute rat in an animated movie, ratatouille is one of the best things you can do with zucchini. It is also one of the best things you can do with eggplant.

A traditional vegetable stew from Provence, ratatouille is usually made with a rustic simplicity, although it also can be cooked with exquisite refinement. Our version takes the simple route, which leaves plenty of room for additions and experimentation. This recipe is little more than the essential ingredients of zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, onions, and garlic, all simmered together. It would not be inappropriate to add some nicely brined olives to the mix, or some anchovies if you are not looking to keep it strictly vegetarian. Usually served as a side dish, ratatouille easily can make a low-fat, low-cal dinner entrée, especially when it is beefed up with the somewhat less low-fat addition of sausage, ground lamb, or ground beef.

As printed here, the recipe practically makes an entire cauldron full of food. You can cut it in half with no loss of flavor, or you can make the entire recipe and enjoy the leftovers. They go especially well in crepes, or try it as a filling in an omelet.

Winter squashes such as butternut and acorn -- both of which are in full supply right now -- are famously well suited for soups. With the weather becoming crisper, few dishes are as comforting and warming as a bowl of, say, butternut squash soup. This popular dish can be made with heavy cream, sour cream, yogurt, or no dairy product at all, so with an eye toward the inevitably expansive holiday season we have decided to take the healthy-enough skim milk route.

A bit of apple adds some sweet tartness (and keeps the doctor away), while minced ginger creates an unexpected though welcome bite. For an added layer of warmth and complexity of flavor, stir in a teaspoon or more of curry powder while the soup simmers.

For a thoroughly delightful treat, try a bright green bowl of zucchini soup. According to cookbook author Laura Calder, the French recently have taken to punching up this longtime favorite with a new ingredient, wedges of processed cheese. They call it La Vâche Qui Rit in France, which means “the laughing cow,” and you can buy The Laughing Cow brand cheese in most supermarkets in America. Boursin brand cheese also works, and so does regular cream cheese -- they will all provide a smooth, creamy taste with a pleasant tang that enlivens the soup and makes it so enjoyable.

Contact Daniel Neman at dneman@theblade.com or 419-724-6155.

 

RECIPES

Ratatouille

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 pounds eggplant (about 2 large), cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 pounds zucchini (4-5 medium), cut into 3/4-inch cubes

Salt and pepper

2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch squares

2 pounds fresh tomatoes, cored and diced, OR 1 can (28-ounce) diced tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

In a large Dutch oven or other large and heavy pot with a lid, heat oil over medium heat. Cook onions, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in eggplant and zucchini, and season generously with salt and pepper.

Add 3/4 cup water, cover, and simmer until vegetables are beginning to soften, stirring once, about 5 minutes. Stir in bell peppers and simmer, covered, until softened, 5 minutes.

Stir in tomatoes, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low. Partially cover and simmer, stirring often, until vegetables are tender, 15-20 minutes. Remove bay leaves and serve.

Yield: 8 servings

Source: Adapted from MarthaStewart.com

Creamed Acorn/Butternut Squash Soup

2 pounds acorn squash OR butternut squash, halved and seeded

2 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced

1 McIntosh apple, peeled, cored, and diced

3 cups chicken broth

1 cup unsweetened apple cider OR apple juice

1 teaspoon curry powder or more to taste, optional

Salt

1 tablespoon finely minced ginger

1 cup skim milk

Dash white pepper

1/4 cup sherry (optional)

Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish (optional)

Microwave the squash 8 minutes, or until soft. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and set aside.

In a stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring them occasionally, for 5 minutes or until they are lightly browned.

Add the squash, apple, broth, cider or apple juice, optional curry powder, and salt to taste. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Purée the mixture in 3 batches in a blender or food processor, adding a third of the ginger (1 teaspoon) to each batch before mixing.

Transfer the purée to a large saucepan, stir in the milk, white pepper, and optional sherry and heat the soup through, but do not boil it. Garnish each bowl with nutmeg, if desired.

Yield: 8 servings

Source: Adapted from Jane Brody’s Good Food Gourmet, by Jane Brody

Sweet Baked Squash

1 acorn squash OR buttercup squash (not butternut)

1 1/2 tablespoons butter, divided

2 teaspoons brown sugar, divided

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon, divided

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, or more to taste, divided

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut squash in half and scoop out seeds. Cut the butter into small cubes, and place half in the center of each squash. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of sugar, half the cinnamon, and half the nutmeg into each center.

Bake for 45 minutes.

Yield: 2 large servings

Zucchini Soup

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 pounds zucchini, chopped

2 cups chicken stock OR water

Salt and pepper

Pinch cumin, optional

3-4 triangles The Laughing Cow cheese OR 3 or 4 tablespoons Boursin cheese OR cream cheese

A small handful of fresh herbs (such as mint, dill or chervil), optional

Put the onion and zucchini in a pot and pour over the stock. Season with salt and pepper, and add the cumin (if using). Cover and simmer until soft, about 15 minutes. Add the cheese and herbs (if using) and purée. If you have it, smoked salt goes well in this soup.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: French Taste, by Laura Calder