We hadn't gotten to the second paragraph of a letter from Don B. before we threw up our hands and screamed, "No, don't do it! Don't even think about it!"
The very idea of what he and his wife had planned to do with a week in a rental car in northern Europe gave us a headache of almost titanic proportions.
What Don had in mind is all too common with Americans who have never driven in Europe, or perhaps never even been there. They simply look at an atlas, figure out the distances., and translate it into U.S. terms, not knowing the multiple pitfalls that await the neophyte Euro-driver.
Today seems a good day to have a look at this very typical situation. It's right in the middle of the planning season for those summer trips abroad, and we suspect that overly ambitious itineraries similar to Don's are being conjured up in drawing rooms all over the country.
And we need to step in and sound the alarm before it's too late.
We also know that if Don tried to follow his precise driving plan, he and his wife would be exhausted, frustrated, grumpy, and certainly not on speaking terms by the end of the trip.
But first, his plan as he e-mailed it to us:
Fly from Detroit to Amsterdam on a Thursday night and spend Friday in Holland with relatives. No problem so far.
Then, on Saturday morning, drive to Bruges (Belgium) and stay there for two days. Early Tuesday morning it's off to Normandy to see the cemeteries (Don had an uncle killed there in WWII). And on Wednesday afternoon, on to Paris for two nights.
On Friday, he'll be taking a "leisurely drive through Belgium to Luxembourg" to spend the night before driving back to Amsterdam for a final night with relatives. Then home to the U.S. on Sunday. Eleven days and 10 nights, including air.
Don asks if we think he's trying to do too much. Wants some ideas on where to stay - quaint, off-the-beaten path, and under $150 - and what are the must-sees in each place.
OK, Don. While this is still a very tight schedule for a 10-day trip, the good news is that most of it can be done. But never in a car!
This is an itinerary ideally suited for trains, especially for the excellent train systems of northern Europe. Riding a train relieves you of the intense stress and strain of long-distance driving in alien territories where road conditions, traffic patterns, and driving styles are totally different from those at home.
Also avoided: $4-plus-per-gallon gas prices, tolls, parking costs, and a host of other mind-bending frustrations and expenses.
Train travel will allow you and your wife to enjoy your holiday, take a long and leisurely look at the countryside, and have some time at your planned destinations of Bruges, Paris, and Amsterdam. (We would suggest leaving Luxembourg City for another occasion.)
Our solution:
First, get a five-day 1st Class Eurail Select Pass, good for unlimited rail travel in three countries, in your case, Holland, Belgium, and France. The price is $316 per person.
We suggest you contact Budget Europe Travel Service in Ann Arbor (800-441-2387), which can provide you with passes, reservations, itineraries, and other vital train information based on the staff's own personal experiences.
With passes in hand, fly to Amsterdam as planned and spend two nights with the relatives. This will allow you to get over jet lag and see a bit of this great city of canals, cafes, and culture.
It's just three hours by train from Amsterdam to Bruges (change trains in Brussels). Then spend the two nights in Bruges, perhaps taking a tour to Flanders Fields or just enjoy Bruges' Venice-style canals, medieval architecture, or the dozens of local beers that Belgium has to offer.
Brilliant!
To get to Paris, simply retrace your tracks to Brussels and in 2 1/2 hours you'll be in Paris. And fresh as a daisy!
The most efficient way to do Normandy, and the invasion sights, is to take a full day tour out of Paris. Several tour companies, like Gray Line, do tours like this on a daily basis.
After Paris, take the train back to Amsterdam (via Brussels) and join your relatives for the final night.
For accommodations in Bruges and Paris, consult the standard guidebooks like Frommers or Time Out Paris, which give descriptions and prices of hotels in all categories. And take cabs to get there from the train stations.
Keep your luggage down to one small suitcase each, because you'll have to move them around a lot in train stations, lift them up onto overhead racks, and keep track of them.
A final note: Because the European train system is so reliable, far-reaching, fast, and comfortable, automobiles there are best used for exploring the countryside in a leisurely fashion rather than for racing from one city destination to another.
First Published March 13, 2005, 9:04 a.m.