Fired up: Get grilling for Fourth of July

Chicken cooks in a grill pan. THE BLADE/ANDY MORRISON Enlarge | Photo Reprints

This Fourth of July, a significant part of America will be pledging allegiance to the grill.

In one recent survey, 63 percent of the respondents said that Independence Day is their favorite day to grill -- and why not? Summer has arrived, even in this part of the world, the fireworks are ready, friends and family are coming over, and grilled food is a great reason to break out the beer. It's the perfect Fourth of July activity.

Sure, you can make hamburgers and hot dogs. There is nothing wrong with hamburgers and hot dogs -- except that you have them Every. Single. Year.

There is a lot to be said for traditions, especially on the holidays. But this year, why not break out of the culinary rut? Why not grill something new?

You could argue that it is almost your patriotic duty to cook hamburgers and hot dogs for July 4th, that hamburgers and hot dogs are as much a part of America as apple pie and Studebakers. And you would have a point.

But do we fire up the Char-Blaster on Independence Day for the sole purpose of producing burgers and franks? Or is the point of grilling on this weekend the grilling itself? In other words, is it the hamburgers that seem patriotic, or is it the grill?

There is something about a piece of meat, redolent of smoke and perfectly seared with a hint of a crisp char, that speaks of the glories of the summer. Fish, too, often tastes best on a grill, and the flames add an unbeatable flavor to vegetables. And isn't that inimitable grilled taste what the Fourth of July is all about?

Purists might suggest that the Fourth has to do with freedom, but that is a narrow view. It's all about the freedom to grill. That's something we can all do to celebrate America.

You say you haven't grilled before? That's odd. But there's a first time for everything. If you're a veteran griller, stick with us; this will only take a moment:

A lot of people wonder which is better, gas grills or charcoal. Gas is quicker to bring to temperature, far more convenient, and much easier to control. Charcoal is slower and trickier, but because of the flavor imparted by the glowing coals it tastes better. Which one you choose is your call -- you won't go wrong with either one.

Seasoned grillers know there are two ways to grill, with direct heat and with indirect heat. Foods that are small or cook quickly (hamburgers, steaks, shrimp, fish, boneless chicken, hot dogs, vegetables) should be cooked directly over the coals or the flames; that's direct heat. With indirect heat, you put the coals on one side of the grill or turn the gas on one side, and place foods that are large or cook slowly (chicken with bones, roasts, ribs) on the other side. Or you can divide the coals and put half along one side and half along the other -- or turn on the gas along the left and right sides -- and cook the food in the middle.

If your grill has a lid, use it. Not only will it cook the food faster and give it more of a smoky taste, but it will also reduce the possibility of flare-ups, which can burn your food. If you use your lid, make sure your vents are open to allow oxygen in to keep the coals or flames hot.

Even if you don't have a grill, you can still get very nearly the same effect with a grill pan on your stove. A grill pan is a heavy pan -- cast iron is best -- with ridges on the inside that act like a grill's metal grate. Juice and fat from the food drip into the valleys between these ridges and turn to smoke, so you even get some of a grill's flavor.

Salt and pepper are all the seasonings you need to grill, but the fun -- and a world of flavors -- comes from spicing up the meat or veggies first with a rub or a marinade.

Lamb burgers, lamb chops, chicken and a strip steak on the grill. THE BLADE/ANDY MORRISON Enlarge | Photo Reprints

A rub is a mixture of spices you rub onto the meat for a fairly short period of time before grilling; don't leave it on for more than an hour or so, or the salt (and sugar, if you're using it) will start to draw the juices out of the meat. A great all-purpose rub used by Chef David Everett of Williamsburg, Va., begins with a teaspoon and a half of salt and adds a teaspoon or so of brown sugar, ground cumin, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, and black pepper, plus some crushed bay leaves. You can change the proportions of the spices, as long as there is more salt than anything else, and you can add other spices that are appropriate for the meat -- sage or thyme for chicken; marjoram, chile powder, or even cinnamon for beef; mustard seeds or allspice for pork; rosemary for lamb.

A marinade is a liquid that takes longer to flavor the meat or vegetables. Usually, it is made of a bit of acid (often it's lemon juice, but vinegar, wine, and even beer work well, too), some oil to help the marinade adhere to the food, salt, and an assortment of flavorings such as herbs or spices. A simple vinaigrette works well, including bottled Italian salad dressings, or you can get more exotic with everything from fancy mustards to coconut milk to soy sauce or yogurt.

Yogurt keeps the meat moist but it has a tempering effect on the spices, so if you use it, be sure to marinate the meat overnight to allow the spices a chance to get into the meat. Marinades using soy sauce, on the other hand, should be used for a short time only because the high sodium content will quickly overwhelm the other flavors.

If you like food spicy hot, grilling is a great way to add a little heat (or a lot) to your food; the flavor of smoke is a natural match for the zing of pepper. And for another great dimension of flavor, you can cool down this smoky spice with a bright, refreshing sauce such as one made with yogurt and mint.

And remember, grilling isn't just for dinner anymore. If you think of a grill as an ordinary source for heat, you can open the door to any number of dishes you can make on a grill. You can even use it for dessert. Brownies baked in a pan on a grill? Sure. Cookies? Why not? Grilled chocolate and marmalade sandwiches? You bet. Oh, you bet.

And of course, you can make a pizza on a grill. Just use plenty of oil to keep the dough from sticking, cook the crust partway first, and add the cheese before the sauce.

Grilled pizza. What could be more American than that?

Contact Daniel Neman at dneman@theblade.com or 419-724-6155.

RECIPES

“Onion Water’ Lamb Chops

8 lamb loin chops, 1½ inches thick

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

1½ pounds onions, peeled and quartered

1-3 serrano peppers or other hot chilies, minced

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Trim most of the excess fat off the lamb chops

Place the saffron in a small bowl and grind it to a fine powder with a pestle or the end of a wooden spoon. Add 1 tablespoon of warm water, stir, and let stand for 5 minutes.

Place the onions in a food processer and process (in batches if necessary) until they are pureed and quite watery. Transfer the pureed onions to a fine-meshed strainer and set it over a large, deep, nonreactive bowl. Let the onions drain, pressing the solids with the back of a rubber spatula or wooden spoon to extract the juice. Discard the contents of the strainer.

Add the serranos, salt, turmeric, black pepper, and soaked saffron to the onion juice. Whisk until the salt dissolves. Add the lamb chops and turn to coat thoroughly. Let the chops marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 hours, turning several times.

Preheat the grill to high. Remove the chops from the marinade and grill to taste, about 6 minutes per side for medium. Serve at once.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: The Barbecue! Bible, by Steven Raichlen

Moroccan-Spiced Chicken

1 chicken cut into parts OR 4 game hens

1 medium onion, grated

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon white pepper

Lemon wedges, for garnish

Remove any excess fat from the chicken or game hens; if using game hens, cut them in half lengthwise using poultry shears. Rinse the chicken or game hens under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a deep, nonreactive bowl or baking dish.

Combine the onion, parsley, cilantro, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, cumin, paprika, ginger, and white pepper in a small bowl, and whisk to mix. Pour the marinade over the chicken or game hens, turning them to coat thoroughly. Marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2-8 hours, the longer the better. Turn occasionally.

Prepare the grill for indirect heat. Place the chicken or game hens on the grill away from the heat, and cover the grill. Cook white meat for about 50 minutes, turning once; cook dark meat for about 1 hour, turning once; cook game hens for 30-40 minutes, turning once.

Allow the meat to rest at least 5 minutes before serving with lemon wedges.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: Adapted from The Barbecue! Bible, by Steven Raichlen

Green Chile Lamb Burgers

1 pound ground lamb

¼ cup canned diced green chiles, drained

1 tablespoon paprika

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

In a large bowl, gently mix all the ingredients. Shape the mixture into four patties of equal size and thickness, each about ¾-inch thick. Make a shallow indentation in the center of each patty to keep them from puffing on the grill.

Grill over direct medium heat until medium doneness, 8-10 minutes, turning once. Keep the lid closed as much as possible. Serve warm on an onion bun with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise, if desired.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: Weber’s Time to Grill

Marinated Chicken Thighs with Mint-Tahini Sauce

Paste:

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

¼ cup grated red onion

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon garam masala

2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat and skin

Extra-virgin olive oil

Sauce:

1 large garlic clove

¼ cup plain Greek yogurt

¼ cup tahini

¼ cup water

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 cup packed fresh mint leaves

½ teaspoon kosher salt

In a bowl, combine the paste ingredients. Place the chicken in a large, resealable plastic bag and spoon in the paste. Press the air out of the bag and seal tightly. Turn the bag to distribute the paste. Refrigerate 1-2 hours, turning occasionally.

In a food processor, process the garlic until finely chopped. Add the yogurt, tahini, water, and lemon juice and process to combine. Add the mint and salt and pulse until the mint is finely chopped and the sauce is smooth.

Wipe most of the marinade off the chicken and grill over indirect heat for about 1 hour, turning once. Allow the chicken to rest 3-5 minutes before serving warm with the sauce.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: Weber’s Time to Grill

Terrorized Steak

Leaves from 6 sprigs marjoram, about 5 inches long

Leaves from 6 sprigs rosemary, about 5 inches long

8 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons cognac

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

4 New York strip steaks, 1½ inches thick

In a mortar or mini food processor, pound or process the marjoram, rosemary, garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, cognac, olive oil, and black pepper into a coarse paste. Rub paste evenly on both sides of the steaks. Allow the steaks to rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1½ hours before grilling.

Grill directly over a medium-hot fire, turning occasionally, until crusty on the outside, about 5 minutes on each side for medium rare. Allow to rest briefly before serving.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: The Rose Pistola Cookbook, by Reed Hearon and Peggy Knickerbocker

Grilled Chocolate Sandwiches

8 slices country-style white bread, ½ inch thick

2 tablespoons PLUS 2 teaspoons orange marmalade

2 (4-ounce) bars good-quality bittersweet chocolate

6 tablespoons butter, melted (¾ stick)

2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

Lay 4 slices of bread on a work surface and spread 2 teaspoons marmalade on each. Place one-fourth of the chocolate on each of the four slices, breaking the chocolate to fit the shape of the bread. Top each one with another slice of bread and brush melted butter onto both sides of each sandwich.

Grill over direct, medium-low heat until the bread is golden brown and crispy and the chocolate is melted, 4-5 minutes, turning once. Let the sandwiches rest for a minute, slice in half with a serrated knife, and lightly dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Yield: 4-8 servings

Source: Weber’s Time to Grill