Sylvania Twp. deli a dependable Middle Eastern go-to

Fetoosh's chicken Mediterranean pizza. Enlarge

Fetoosh Deli in Sylvania Township features big, bold tastes in an unassuming package.

Like so many small northwest Ohio restaurants, it's hidden away in a strip shopping center where the atmosphere is laid-back, friendly, and unpretentious while a bit non-descript. There are helpful descriptions of Mediterranean dishes such as baba ghanouj, mjadara, and lubia over the deli case, and the fellow behind the counter has an easy smile and a patient attitude when you queue up to order.

Fetoosh opened in Maumee in 1996 and moved to its Sylvania Township location at the busy corner of McCord Road and Central Avenue a few years ago. Its specialty is catering, and the deli has a fairly limited menu.

The portions are generous and the prices are exceptionally reasonable, especially when you load up on the platters and take advantage of the side dishes.

The chicken taouk platter, marinated grilled chicken breast, skewered and served over rice with a large salad ($7.99) is a hearty meal that pairs up well with side dishes such as the lubia, mjadara, and hommus when ordered as a platter.

The lubia -- green beans in a tomato based stew -- is excellent and a nice companion with the rice. The mjadara works much the same way, with the lentils seasoned perfectly.

Fetoosh Deli's shish kefta platter ($7.99) features the kefta, aka Mediterranean meat loaf, heavily seasoned with parsley, onions, and other spices on a skewer. This is not for folks who are shy about how spicy their food is, but it's not overbearing and the balance is good.

We were sadly unimpressed with Fetoosh Deli's gyro sandwich ($4.99). The meat was tough and over-done and it was served like a deli wrap in a generic piece of bread that seemed more like a tortilla than a pita.

We also had the chicken Mediterranean pizza ($5.99) which featured zatar bread with feta cheese, pineapples, tomato, and oregano. It's an intriguing idea for a pizza -- pineapple is generally paired with ham rather than chicken -- but two things held it back: The oregano was overwhelming and for some reason the pizza came with black olives, which were not on the menu. Neither of us was keen on the olives and we had to pick them off.

Fetoosh does not serve alcohol, but features a variety of smoothies and health drinks.

The restaurant has some competition in the neighborhood, with two similarly styled Middle Eastern delis nearby, but it should continue to hold its own. We're guessing that most of its business comes from catering because every time we've been there foot traffic has been sparse even though residents of the area owe it to themselves to check it out.

FETOOSH DELI

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Address: 6725 W. Central Ave.

Phone: 419-593-0011.

Category: Casual.

Menu: Mediterranean.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. No reservations, but the deli caters.

Wheelchair access: Yes.

Average price: $.

Credit cards: AE, Dis, MC, V, Debit cards are accepted.

Web site: Fetooshdeli.com

Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com.