Federally backed vineyard expansion funds aim to build Ohio's reputation for fine wines

Among rolling hills with budding grapevines, two white cats lounge.

Their owners are wine producers, and they are definitely not in lounge mode. They've got a winery to run, vines to tend to and a network of grape growers to help establish.

This scene, at Eldchrist Winery in Plain City, is unusual for central Ohio but represents an expansion of wine growing in the state, aided in part by a government program.

“This could be a very nice grape-growing industry, because there's an awful lot of expertise in this area for growing,” said co-owner Chris Eldredge. “I don't know if it'll work, but I'm trying to pioneer it.”

He and his wife, Jennifer, allowed the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center to take over their business recently for a workshop on grape growing. A crowd of 40 people gathered in a small room to learn about soil analysis, variety selection and grants available for planting grapevines.

Eldchrist Winery was one of 19 that recently received $2,000 from the Vineyard Expansion Assistance Program to plant grapevines. The money helped the business plant more than originally budgeted. Now, there are 600 vines planted there, which Eldredge hopes to harvest in 2012.

Why are the grants needed?

Ohio government leaders think a small investment in wine grapes will lead to big dividends. The industry is growing in Ohio, evolving from a few mass producers of mainly sweet wines to a large number of small producers who cater to more discerning tastes.

The expansion is also geographic, spreading beyond the wine-growing hub of Ashtabula County to locations throughout the state.

The grants are funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Specialty Crop Block Grant program. Each state receives money for specialty crops, such as nursery plants or grapes. Of Ohio's $650,000 received for specialty crops, $40,000 went toward making Ohio's wine industry more fruitful.

“I think they're good wines; they're fun wines,” said Jeff Elasky, general manager of the Refectory Restaurant & Bistro, the fine-dining spot on the Northwest Side. “The more you can put them out in front of people, they more they will seek them out.”

His restaurant featured some Ohio wines in June, part of growing ties between the local wine industry and top chefs.

At one time, this would have been hard to believe. Ohio's wine industry was built in the 19th century on local grape varieties that were pink and sweet. Smaller producers began to spring up in the 1960s, and many produced drier wines.

Decades later, the industry is still dealing with the perception that its product has an unsophisticated flavor.

“It's not just about pink and sweet,” said Christy Eckstein, executive director of Ohio Grape Industries Committee, part of the state Agriculture Department.

Her group selected the growers that received the $2,000 grants, with 19 recipients out of 35 applications.

Wally Maurer, of Domaine Berrien Cellars winery in Berrien Springs, Mich., agrees that the Midwest suffers from an image problem that it's trying to counter.

Customers at the winery are offered tastes of Maurer's 18 wines, including pinot noir, lemberger, pinot grigio, merlot and syrah. Most walk out with a bottle or two, pledging to come back for more. Many are repeaters who have brought along vacationing friends and relatives.

Still, Maurer and other Midwestern winemakers struggle to shake off perceptions that their wine is of low quality.

“The hardest thing is letting people know about the wide variety of Michigan wine, its tremendous quality and that it's not all sweet,” said Tony Peterson, owner of Contessa Wine Cellars in Coloma, Mich., a boutique winery perched atop rolling green hills.

Prohibition killed off most winemaking in the United States, and when it ended in 1933, Americans demanded what was popular then: sweet wines. Midwestern wineries responded by cranking up sweet wine production. Although they have ventured into dry and semidry wines, the sweet wine label has stuck.

The key, Peterson and others said, is luring tourists and locals into their tasting rooms, where the wineries make the bulk of their sales.

About one-third of Ohio's wine is made from grapes that are brought in from other sources. State leaders are hoping to increase acreage planted with wine grapes, which now stands at about 1,500, so that wineries will have a reliable local supply.

The program's goal is to increase acreage by 10 percent in the next 10 years.

“Through (this grant) growers and wineries are making a long-term commitment,” Eckstein said. “We're looking for people serious and committed to help the industry and themselves.”

The money granted in March was merely the first round. The program has been extended, and round two of funds will be given out in 2011.

Eldredge met friend Kenneth Meeks through the hobby of winemaking.

The two men got the idea to start a winery, and, in 2007, they acquired 4 acres, fixed up a farmhouse and applied for wine permits.

Eldchrist Winery was born of four owners — couple Jennifer and Chris Eldredge, Kenneth Meeks and Colleen Rennick — and first produced a Chardonnay.

Eldchrist's fields are now planted with six varieties of grapes, from New York, Minnesota and Europe. Wines from Eldchrist Winery are sold at 30 locations in central Ohio, such as the Dublin Village Tavern and the Hills Market on Rt. 315 near the north Outerbelt.

Those who apply for vineyard-expansion funding undergo an evaluation checklist of site selection, soil analysis, short- and long-term goals and visits from viticulture specialists.

One of those specialists is David Scurlock.

As a viticulture outreach specialist at the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center in Wooster, he surveys lands requesting VEAP grant money. He checks the site location, recommends varieties and comes back after planting to check progress.

“This is a friendly industry and a nice group of people to work with,” Scurlock said to the workshop crowd on July27.

Both growers and sellers of wine can apply for vineyard-expansion funding. Growers have to show proof of contract with a winery that plans to convert the grapes into wine. Others who apply for the funding have to show intent to open a winery. Eckstein said they try to balance grant money between existing and new growers.

Ohio is among the top 10 states for wine and grape production. In 2008, Ohio wines brought in $582 million for the state's economy.

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