Saturday, Oct 01, 2016
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Troisgros Vinegar Chicken Cured Slaw

1 3 to 3 1/2-pound chicken, cut up

1 onion, cut in half

1 carrot, cut in half

Salt and ground black pepper

5 tablespoons butter, divided

15 cloves garlic, peeled (see note)

2 sprigs parsley

1/2 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon dried chervil

1/4 cup red-wine vinegar

3 fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, divided, or 2 1/4 cups drained canned diced tomatoes, divided

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Fresh chervil, for optional garnish

Cut wing tips from chicken wings. In a medium saucepan, combine chicken neck, back, wing tips, onion, carrot and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Let cool. Strain broth; skim off fat.

Meanwhile, sprinkle remaining chicken lightly with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add chicken; cook over medium-high heat until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat slightly. Add garlic cloves, cover skillet and cook for 20 minutes.

While chicken cooks, make a bouquet garni: Tie parsley, bay leaf, thyme, and dried chervil in a square of cheesecloth; set aside. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Spoon off fatty liquid from the skillet. Add vinegar to skillet; stir to scrape up browned bits. Cook 2 minutes. Add 2 fresh tomatoes or 1 1/4 cups canned tomatoes, tomato paste and bouquet garni. Cover; cook 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a platter; cover loosely and keep warm in the oven.

Add reserved chicken broth to the skillet. Bring to a boil; cook until sauce is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Remove bouquet garni and discard. Remove skillet from heat; stir in remaining 4 tablespoons butter, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Transfer the contents of the skillet to a food processor; puree. For a smoother sauce, force the puree through a coarse sieve.

Return the puree to the skillet, stir in the remaining chopped tomato or 1 cup canned tomato, and heat until hot. Spoon sauce over chicken.

To garnish, sprinkle lightly with chervil.

Yield: 4 servings

Source: Adapted from a recipe given to a St. Louis resident by the late chef Jean Troisgros, whose eponymous restaurant in Rouanne, France, continues to hold the highest rating of three stars from the Guide Michelin.

Per serving: 535 calories; 38g fat (64 percent calories from fat); 15.5g saturated fat; 172mg cholesterol; 43.5g protein; 5g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 0.5g fiber; 167mg sodium; 49mg calcium; 491mg potassium.

1 large head cabbage, shredded (7 to 8 cups)

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup white-wine vinegar

3/4 cup canola oil

Salt

Place cabbage, onion and bell pepper in a large bowl. Stir together sugar, vinegar, oil and salt to taste. Pour over the vegetables; mix thoroughly. Cover tightly; refrigerate for at least 6 hours. (The slaw will keep up to 2 weeks, the flavor improving as it ages. Mix again before serving.)

Yield: Six 1 1/2-cup servings.

Per serving: 325 calories; 28g fat (78 percent calories from fat); 2g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 2g protein; 17g carbohydrate; 13g sugar; 3g fiber; 18mg sodium; 48mg calcium; 285mg potassium.

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GENO'S TAPANADE

Gene Leonard

Yield: 1 1/2 cups.

3 large cloves garlic, peeled

2 teaspoons capers, drained

6 anchovy fillets

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons cognac or brandy

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon wine vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 cups kalamata olives, pitted (about 3/4 pound with pits or an 8.5-ounce jar of pitted olives)

French bread, for serving

With the food processor running, drop garlic through the feed tube. When garlic is minced, stop the food processor; add capers, anchovies, thyme, mustard, cognac, lemon juice, vinegar, oil and olives. Process until pureed to a spreadable consistency. Serve on toasted or fresh rounds of French bread.

PER TABLESPOON: calories; g fat ( percent calories from fat); g saturated fat; mg cholesterol; g protein; g carbohydrate; g sugar; g fiber; mg sodium; mg calcium.

Note: For a less-salty tapenade (and a lower sodium content), use white Spanish anchovies packed in olive oil, which are sold in specialty food shops. When using canned anchovies, reduce sodium by soaking the anchovies in water for 5 to 10 minutes; pat dry before use.

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